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Biophysics of Human Hair : Structural, Nanomechanical, and Nanotribological Studies, Paperback / softback Book

Biophysics of Human Hair : Structural, Nanomechanical, and Nanotribological Studies Paperback / softback

Part of the Biological and Medical Physics, Biomedical Engineering series

Paperback / softback

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Humanhairisananocompositebiological?ber. Maintainingthehealth,feel,shine, color,softness,andoverallaestheticsofthehairishighlydesired.

Haircarepr- ucts such as shampoos and conditioners, along with damaging processes such as chemical dyeing and permanent wave treatments, affect the maintenance and groomingprocessandareimportanttostudybecausetheyaltermanyhairprop- ties.

Nanoscalecharacterizationofthecellularstructure,mechanicalproperties,and morphological, frictional,andadhesive properties(tribologicalproperties)ofhair areessentialtoevaluateanddevelopbettercosmeticproductsandtoadvancethe understandingofbiologicalandcosmeticscience.

Theatomic/frictionforcemic- scope(AFM/FFM)andnanoindenterhavebecomeimportanttoolsforstudyingthe micro/nanoscalepropertiesofhumanhair.

Inthisbook,wepresentacomprehensive review of structural, nanomechanical, and nanotribological properties of various hairandskinasafunctionofethnicity,damage,conditioningtreatment,andvarious environments.

Variouscellularstructuresofhumanhairand?nesublamellarstr- turesofthecuticleareidenti?edandstudied.

Nanomechanicalpropertiessuchas hardness,elasticmodulus,tensiledeformation,fatigue,creep,andscratchresistance arediscussed. Nanotribologicalpropertiessuchasroughness,friction,andadhesion are presented, as well as investigations of conditioner distribution, thickness, and bindinginteractions.

Tounderstandtheelectrostaticchargebuilduponhair,surface potentialstudiesarealsopresented.

Thebookshouldserveasareferencebookonthebiophysicsofhumanhairand hairtreatments.

TheresearchreportedinthisbookwassupportedbyProcter&GambleCo. in Cincinnati,Ohio,andKobe,Japan. IwouldliketothankCarmenLaTorrewhohad assistedinvariouspublicationsonhairresearch.

Iwouldalsoliketothankmywife Sudha,whohasbeenforbearingduringthepreparationofthisbook.

Powell,OH BharatBhushan November2010 v Contents 1 Introduction-Human Hair, Skin, and Hair Care Products...1 1. 1 HumanHair ...1 1. 1. 1 TheCuticle ...3 1. 1. 2 TheCortexandMedulla...6 1. 2 Skin...7 1. 3 HairCare:CleaningandConditioningTreatments,andDamaging Processes ...10 1. 3. 1 CleaningandConditioningTreatments:Shampoo andConditioner...13 1. 3. 2 DamagingProcesses...18 1. 4 OrganizationoftheBook ...19 2 Experimental Methods...21 2. 1 ExperimentalApparatuses...23 2. 2 ExperimentalProcedure ...26 2. 2. 1 StructuralCharacterizationUsinganAFM...26 2. 2. 2 SurfacePotentialStudiesUsingAFM-Based KelvinProbeMicroscopy...29 2. 2. 3 NanomechanicalCharacterizationUsingNanoindentation ...30 2. 2. 4 InSituTensileDeformationCharacterizationUsingAFM ...32 2. 2. 5 Macroscale Tribological Characterization UsingaFrictionTestApparatus...33 2. 2. 6 Micro/nanotribologicalCharacterizationUsinganAFM...35 2. 3 HairandSkinSamples ...41 3 Structural Characterization Using an AFM ...45 3. 1 StructureofHairCrossSectionandLongitudinalSection ...45 3. 1. 1 CrossSectionofHair...45 3. 1. 2 LongitudinalSectionofHair...45 3. 2 StructureofVariousCuticleLayers...48 3. 2. 1 VirginHair...48 vii viii Contents 3. 2. 2 ChemicallyDamagedHair...50 3. 2. 3 Conditioner-TreatedHair...52 3. 2. 4 EffectofHumidityonMorphologyandCellularStructure ofHairSurface...54 3. 3 Summary...55 4 Nanomechanical Characterization Using Nanoindentation, Nanoscratch, and AFM...57 4. 1 Hardness,Young'sModulus,andCreep...

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